An Unforgettable Culinary Expedition Through the Heart of Paris
It still feels like a dream that my feet touched the historic cobblestones of Paris just over a month ago. Time truly does have wings, and it’s almost surreal to reflect on my first visit to France, an experience profoundly marked by the tragic events of the terrorist attacks that unfolded during my stay. My thoughts continue to linger with that somber day and its innocent victims, a reminder of the city’s enduring resilience and spirit.
Before diving into the incredible gastronomic adventures, let me share the unexpected backstory of how I found myself in the enchanting French capital. Back in June, I spontaneously decided to enter a recipe contest hosted by Cono Sur Vineyards & Winery. The premise was delightfully simple: submit a unique recipe and suggest a suitable wine pairing from their esteemed collection. I’ve always steered clear of contests, considering myself quite unlucky in such endeavors. However, with a perfect recipe already in mind that I knew would complement one of their crisp Sauvignon Blancs, I figured there was nothing to lose. I submitted my entry, promptly forgetting all about it amidst the daily bustle.
Months later, in October, an email landed in my inbox, completely catching me off guard. It was a congratulatory message – I had won a trip to Paris to compete in the final round! Initially, I suspected it was an elaborate scam, but a quick dive through my old emails confirmed the astonishing truth: I had indeed entered and won that contest. The realization hit me like a delightful wave: I was going to Paris, representing the United States in an international culinary competition!
The prize was extraordinary. Seven countries were represented, with one blogger and their guest from each nation flown, all expenses paid, to Paris. The ultimate grand prize for the competition winner was a lavish 6-night, 7-day all-inclusive trip to Chile, including an immersive tour of the Cono Sur vineyards and winery. Unfortunately, my husband, Jason, couldn’t join me due to work commitments. However, I was incredibly fortunate to have my dear friend and fellow blogger, Gina, accompany me. Cono Sur spoiled us beyond measure, flying us both *first class* – an experience that has, admittedly, spoiled me for future coach flights (just kidding… mostly!). They wined and dined us, introducing us to the unparalleled beauty and charm of Paris.
Gina and I arrived two days prior to the competition and extended our stay for an additional day afterward, giving us three full days to immerse ourselves in Parisian life. Though, regrettably, our final day was spent under hotel lockdown due to the unforeseen circumstances. While I’ll dedicate a separate post to the iconic sights we explored, this particular article is a heartfelt ode to the incredible culinary journey we embarked upon, detailing every delightful bite and memorable meal.
A Gastronomic Adventure Begins: Crepes, Croissants, and Hidden Gems
Charming Creperies and Savory Delights
Our Parisian culinary exploration began with a spontaneous stop at a charming, unnamed creperie. After miles of walking through the city’s picturesque streets – we clocked an impressive nine miles on our first day alone – we found ourselves winding through one of Paris’s many adorable alleyways, lined with quaint cafes and inviting boutiques. It was there, nestled in a cobblestone lane, that we discovered this little creperie. The window to the kitchen was open, facing the street, allowing the irresistible aroma of freshly made crepes to waft out and envelop us. The sight of a lady skillfully crafting crepes right before our eyes, coupled with the intoxicating scent, was simply too much to resist. Starving and enchanted, we quickly perused the menu and snagged a cozy seat inside.
I hadn’t realized that European crepes often present themselves differently from their American counterparts. I had envisioned the neatly folded triangles or rolled-up versions common in the United States. To our pleasant surprise, this establishment used buckwheat flour for their crepes, giving them a distinct brown hue instead of the standard yellowish color. My choice was a delectable savory crepe filled with rich ham, creamy Gruyere cheese, and crowned with a perfectly fried egg. It was an ideal light meal, perfectly tiding us over for the remainder of our extensive sightseeing adventure that day.
Sweet Temptations: Bakeries and the Macaron Quest
Just a short stroll down the street from our creperie discovery, we stumbled upon Maison Georges Larnicol, an absolutely adorable bakery. Stepping inside was like entering a treasure trove for sweet enthusiasts. The displays overflowed with an astounding array of chocolates, delicate pastries, and a grand, colorful collection of macarons.
We couldn’t leave empty-handed, so we departed with a selection of their exquisite macarons – the coconut flavor, in particular, completely captured my heart. I also made sure to pick up a kouignette, a miniature version of the famous Breton butter pastry known as kouign amann. This regional specialty features countless layers of butter and sugar, folded together to create a caramelized, flaky masterpiece when baked. I had heard whispers of the kouign amann’s legendary status before arriving in Paris, knowing it was a must-try. It was undeniably delicious, though I must confess, each bite felt like indulging in a glorious stick of butter – in the best possible way!
Our macaron quest continued as we ventured to Pierre Hermé, renowned for its luxurious macarons. Our plan was to conduct a comparative taste test, pitting Maison Georges against Pierre Hermé and the iconic Ladurée. As expected, the queue outside Pierre Hermé snaked down the street, a testament to its popularity. We patiently waited and emerged with a box of six delectable macarons. Since Ladurée was conveniently located just down the street, we discreetly stashed our Pierre Hermé treasures in my purse – Ladurée, quite understandably, maintains a strict policy against bringing outside treats into their establishment. Later that evening, back at our hotel, we discovered the Pierre Hermé macarons had endured a slight crushing (an inevitable outcome of purse-storage!), but they remained perfectly edible. After our rigorous taste test, I surprising found my favorite to be from Maison Georges. While I appreciate the artistry of Pierre Hermé and Ladurée, their widespread hype didn’t quite resonate with my personal palate as much as the charming, simple perfection of Maison Georges’ offerings. Please don’t hate me for my unconventional preference!
The Unexpected Gem: L’As du Fallafel
No matter what your Parisian itinerary holds, I implore you to carve out time for L’As du Fallafel. I know what you’re thinking: “I’m in Paris, and you’re telling me to eat falafel?” But trust me on this one. It is truly exceptional and unequivocally worth any wait. Luckily, during our weekday evening visit, the line was manageable. However, I’ve seen countless photos and heard tales of its legendary queues, stretching for what seems like an eternity. Patience is key here; the reward is immense. And a crucial tip: resist the temptation of the falafel shop directly across the street – it simply doesn’t compare. A unique aspect of L’As du Fallafel is their ticketing system: you purchase a ticket from a vendor outside before joining the main line. While it might seem a tad unorthodox, it’s their method for separating money handling from food preparation. Pay, get your ticket, and then get ready for a masterpiece. My advice? Load up your falafel sandwich with *everything*. I’m still dreaming of its incredible flavors!
The Essence of French Baking and Gourmet Dining
The Quest for the Perfect Croissant and Pain aux Raisins
Our second full day in Paris brought more extensive walking and sightseeing, guided by a culinary mission. My friend’s sister, a former Paris resident, emphatically insisted we visit a particular boulangerie near her old neighborhood. Her declaration: it boasted “the best pain raisin among the millions of bakeries in Paris.” Such a bold claim was more than enough to motivate us for a considerable trek across the city. By the time we arrived, somewhat weary from our “lonnnng” journey, we were convinced this bakery had better live up to its formidable reputation!
While I’m not a fan of raisins in baked goods, hence skipping the pain raisin myself, Gina eagerly indulged. For my part, I knew I couldn’t leave without experiencing an authentic Parisian croissant. Up until this point, my croissant encounters had been limited, and I craved the real deal. And what a discovery it was! Light, incredibly flaky, and revealing delicate layers of buttery perfection – it was simply wow. My eyes also landed on a café eclair, and given my absolute adoration for coffee-flavored pastries, it was an instant must-have. Every single item we savored from that boulangerie was nothing short of AMAZING, a true testament to the artistry of French baking.
The Pinnacle of Parisian Dining: Les Papilles
Prepare yourselves, for I am about to introduce you to what was, without a doubt, the finest meal we had in all of Paris: Les Papilles. This exceptional restaurant came highly recommended by Erin, and I promptly followed her advice, securing a reservation via email – a method I highly recommend, as they are incredibly responsive within two days. For dinner, Les Papilles offers a unique and thrilling experience: a 4-course meal without a traditional menu. While there’s a daily menu presented upon arrival, it’s essentially a culinary journey curated entirely by the chef, based on the freshest, locally sourced ingredients of the day. This approach, for me, is the epitome of fine dining; it consistently delivers exquisite flavors and innovative dishes, always exceeding expectations.
The wine selection process at Les Papilles is equally enchanting. Instead of a conventional wine list, hundreds of bottles line the restaurant’s walls, inviting diners to browse and choose their preference. It’s an interactive and charming way to select the perfect pairing for your meal, though the knowledgeable staff are always on hand to offer expert suggestions.
Our culinary adventure at Les Papilles commenced with a truly enormous bowl of creamy potato leek soup, served with crisp, toasted croutons. This generous starter, easily enough for 4-6 people, was so incredibly comforting and flavorful that it was a struggle to stop drinking it, despite our best efforts to save room for subsequent courses.
For our main course, we were presented with a perfectly cooked pork filet. Each slice was wonderfully tender, accompanied by an array of delicate vegetables and sweet dried apricots, all brought together by an incredibly rich and flavorful sauce. It was a symphony of tastes and textures.
Accompanying our main dish was a side of cheesy polenta that was utterly divine. While undeniably rich, its creamy texture and savory depth made it an incredibly delicious addition to the meal.
The third course, a simple block of cheese adorned with caramelized onions, was the only dish we didn’t fully indulge in. By this point, we were wonderfully stuffed, having savored every previous bite. However, it’s worth noting that the caramelized onions were absolutely spot-on in their flavor and preparation!
And then came the dessert: a panna cotta that completely transformed my perception of this classic Italian treat. Before Les Papilles, I thought I disliked panna cotta, but this one was a revelation. It tasted like autumn personified, with what I believe was an exquisite apple cinnamon compote at the bottom. Gah, it was so incredibly good! I still vividly dream about this entire meal. If you ever find yourself in Paris, making a reservation at Les Papilles is an absolute must.
Sweet Endings and Unexpected Challenges
Berthillon: A Parisian Gelato Icon
Our hotel was conveniently located near Paris’s original and most celebrated gelato establishment, Berthillon. Each day, they offered a rotating menu boasting an array of fascinating flavors rarely found in the States. Imagine fig sorbetto – a truly unique delight! Gina opted for a rich rum raisin, which was incredibly satisfying. I ultimately chose a refreshing mix of berry and fig, a combination that proved to be wonderfully delicious. It’s interesting to note that portion sizes in European countries, while often described as ‘smaller’ than American portions, aren’t necessarily *tiny*. I believe it’s more that we, in America, have simply grown accustomed to an overwhelming abundance of food (think Cheesecake Factory!).
A Meal of Resilience: Gentle Gourmet Cafe
Our final evening in Paris held reservations for Breizh Cafe, a highly acclaimed Brittany creperie celebrated for its savory buckwheat galettes and sweet dessert crepes. It’s a notoriously busy spot, so securing a reservation is usually essential. However, we never made it there. This was the day after the tragic Paris attacks, and we found ourselves under a complete lockdown in our hotel room for the entire day. As evening approached, we finally mustered enough courage to venture a mere thirty seconds down the street to a charming vegetarian restaurant on the corner called Gentle Gourmet Cafe. We both felt a strong need for some wholesome vegetables after the preceding days, making it the perfect choice. Below is a beautifully presented beet salad that Gina ordered for us to share, simple yet bursting with good flavor and stunning presentation.
To further quench our cravings for greens, we both opted for a refreshing green juice, truly appreciating the fresh, vitalizing flavors after a trip largely defined by richer French fare.
My choice for the main course was a delicious portobello burger, generously topped with arugula and a flavorful vegan spicy mayo. It arrived accompanied by perfectly roasted potatoes and a side of coleslaw, proving to be surprisingly tasty for a vegan option.
I must admit to a serious case of “dish envy” when I saw Gina’s entree. It was a visual masterpiece: tofu beautifully crusted in colorful sesame seeds, elegantly presented on a bed of delicate rice noodles. Absolutely gorgeous!
Beyond the Plate: The Culinary Competition Experience
While the food was an undeniable highlight, I wanted to share a glimpse into the actual reason that brought me to Paris: the Cono Sur culinary competition. We cooked and competed in a professional kitchen somewhere in Paris – the exact location remains a mystery to me, as we were simply chauffeured there in vans!
Here is a photo of my final dish! Although I didn’t clinch the grand prize (the trip to Chile), receiving a trip to Paris as a consolation prize was, without a doubt, the best prize imaginable! The entire experience was filled with immense fun, and I had the privilege of meeting so many wonderful new friends from various corners of the globe. I sincerely hope we all manage to stay in touch.
Conclusion: A Culinary Dream in the City of Light
My first journey to Paris was an extraordinary tapestry woven with moments of breathtaking beauty, profound reflection, and, most notably, an unforgettable array of culinary experiences. From the rustic charm of street-side crepes and the refined elegance of Michelin-worthy dinners to the joyous discovery of new flavors and the comforting embrace of familiar tastes, Paris proved to be a true paradise for the senses. Each meal told a story, each pastry offered a moment of pure bliss, and every bite deepened my appreciation for French gastronomy.
This culinary guide merely scratches the surface of what Paris has to offer, but it encapsulates the highlights of my personal journey. I hope it inspires you to embark on your own gastronomic adventure in the City of Light, discovering its endless delights one delicious bite at a time. Stay tuned for my next Paris post, where I’ll shift gears from eating to exploring, showing you the incredible sights we encountered during our daily nine miles of walking! Au revoir for now, and happy travels!
Disclaimer: My plane tickets and two nights at the hotel were generously covered by Cono Sur Vineyards & Winery as part of the competition prize. All additional meals and the subsequent three nights of our stay in Paris were personally funded.