In case you missed our journey through the north: Taipei, Taiwan Part 1 | Taipei, Taiwan Part 2

Discovering Kaohsiung: Southern Taiwan’s Hidden Gem of Culture, Art, and Culinary Delights

After immersing ourselves in the dynamic energy and bustling cityscape of Taipei, my partner Jason and I set our sights southward, embarking on an exciting two-day adventure to Kaohsiung. Despite my numerous previous trips back to Taiwan, this marked my very first exploration of the island’s captivating southern region. It was the perfect opportunity to offer Jason, a first-time visitor to Taiwan, the most comprehensive and unforgettable tour imaginable, showcasing the island’s diverse landscapes and rich cultural tapestry.

Traveling to Kaohsiung has never been easier, thanks to Taiwan’s impressive High-Speed Rail (HSR) network. What once took upwards of five hours by car, navigating busy highways, now takes a mere two hours by bullet train, transforming a long journey into a swift, comfortable, and scenic ride. The unparalleled efficiency of the HSR allowed us to maximize our time in this vibrant port city, eager to uncover its unique charm, laid-back atmosphere, and multitude of attractions.

A Warm Culinary Welcome: Savoring Traditional Taiwanese Comfort Food

Upon our arrival in Kaohsiung, our first order of business was to connect with a dear college friend who resides there. He and his girlfriend graciously welcomed us, immediately whisking us away to an extraordinary Taiwanese restaurant renowned for its authentic traditional comfort food. This wasn’t just any meal; it was a nostalgic taste of home, featuring the kind of hearty, soulful dishes you’d lovingly find on a Taiwanese grandmother’s table – truly a staple in every household across the island, deeply rooted in family and tradition. The aroma alone was enough to make our mouths water.

One particular dish that always brings me immense joy, and which holds a special place in Taiwanese cuisine, is stir-fried watercress spinach. This leafy green vegetable is incredibly popular throughout Taiwan, cherished for its distinct flavor and tender texture. It’s by far my favorite ground-grown green, and I confess, I typically consume more plates of this delicious vegetable when I’m in Taiwan than almost any other dish. Its scarcity and significantly higher cost in the United States make it a coveted treat, so every time it appears on a restaurant menu back home, I seize the opportunity to order it. Having my fill of perfectly prepared watercress spinach in Kaohsiung was a true delight for my palate and a deeply satisfying culinary experience.

And then there was the classic Three Cup Chicken (三杯雞), a dish that needs little introduction for those familiar with Taiwanese gastronomy. I vividly recall my previous blog post detailing this iconic recipe, a labor of love to recreate at home. While my homemade version strives for authenticity, the restaurant’s rendition in Kaohsiung was remarkably close in its rich flavor profile and utterly delicious. It presented a perfect balance of savory, sweet, and aromatic notes derived from the essential “three cups” of sesame oil, soy sauce, and rice wine, along with generous amounts of ginger and basil, served sizzling hot in a traditional clay pot.

A Local’s Guide to Kaohsiung’s Iconic Sights and Cultural Wonders

The following day promised a full immersion into Kaohsiung’s cultural and natural beauty. serendipitously, my cousin’s girlfriend’s brother was also in town and, being a true local, he eagerly volunteered to be our personal guide for the day. His intimate knowledge of the city proved invaluable, leading us directly to all the essential, must-see spots beyond the typical tourist paths. It was a scorching hot day, and we tackled a fair amount of popular tourist attractions under the intense sun, but he assured us he genuinely enjoyed the outing. Having spent nearly eight months working tirelessly on a ship, he felt he had missed out on his vibrant hometown and cherished the chance to play tourist himself, rediscovering its beauty alongside us. We certainly felt incredibly fortunate for his company and invaluable local expertise!

Exploring the Serenity of Lotus Lake and the Majestic Dragon & Tiger Pagodas

Our first destination was the iconic Lotus Lake (蓮池潭), a sprawling artificial lake famed for its numerous temples, pavilions, and most notably, the magnificent Dragon and Tiger Pagodas. Reaching this spiritual haven is remarkably convenient via Kaohsiung’s efficient MRT system. After disembarking at the appropriate station (there are only two main lines in Kaohsiung, making navigation delightfully simple), a short taxi ride brings you directly to the lakeside. This area offers much more than just stunning pagodas; it’s surrounded by numerous ornate temples and charming local eateries, providing a holistic cultural and culinary experience that could easily fill a leisurely afternoon.

The Dragon and Tiger Pagodas are particularly striking and visually dramatic, featuring towering structures adorned with vibrant colors and intricate mosaic work. Visitors are meant to enter through the dragon’s mouth and exit through the tiger’s mouth, a symbolic gesture believed to turn bad luck into good fortune. The detailed artistry, from the scales of the dragon to the stripes of the tiger, is breathtaking, reflecting the rich artistic and religious heritage of Taiwan. As we ascended the pagodas – climbing several floors, though you can certainly go all the way to the top for truly panoramic views – we were treated to increasingly stunning vistas of the tranquil lake, dotted with blooming lotus flowers, and the bustling city skyline extending into the distance. It’s an experience that truly connects you with local folklore and breathtaking scenery.

Taiwan’s temples are truly works of art, each one boasting incredibly intricate details and a profound sense of beauty that speaks volumes about the island’s spiritual and cultural depth. Every carving, every painted mural depicting mythological scenes, and every sculpted deity tells a story of devotion and artistry. The sheer effort and skill involved in their construction are astounding.

The famed Lotus Lake itself is a sight to behold – serene, picturesque, and remarkably tranquil amidst the city’s hustle. Its beauty, especially when the lotus flowers are in bloom, is truly captivating, inviting quiet contemplation and offering a peaceful escape from the urban pace.

Just a short, pleasant walk from the dynamic Lotus Lake, visitors can find the revered Confucius Temple. This significant landmark offers a glimpse into Taiwan’s rich philosophical heritage and provides a peaceful, scholarly atmosphere for reflection and learning about ancient Chinese wisdom.

A Local Lunch: Hearty Hand-Cut Beef Noodle Soup and Refreshing Pidan Tofu

After a morning of extensive sightseeing under the warm Kaohsiung sun, our gracious guide led us to a local eatery specializing in beef noodle soup (牛肉麵) – a universally beloved Taiwanese culinary icon. The flavors were incredibly rich and deeply satisfying, with a robust broth simmered to perfection. But what truly elevated this dish were the noodles themselves. As you can see from the photos, they were expertly handmade and hand-cut right on the premises, meaning each noodle boasted a slightly different size and length, contributing to an incredibly satisfying, springy chewiness that perfectly complemented the flavorful, aromatic broth.

Alongside the hot, comforting noodle soup, we enjoyed a wonderfully refreshing cold dish known as Pidan Tofu (皮蛋豆腐). This was a welcome relief from the humidity and heat outside, offering a cool and savory contrast. Pidan, or century egg, is a unique delicacy where a duck egg is traditionally preserved in a mixture of clay, ash, salt, quicklime, and rice hulls for several weeks or months. Over time, the egg white transforms into a translucent, dark amber jelly, while the yolk develops a rich, creamy, and distinctive umami flavor. Typically, Pidan Tofu is served simply, topped with a drizzle of savory soy sauce, fresh scallions, a dash of fragrant sesame oil, a splash of vinegar, and often, savory pork floss. I have a habit of mashing mine up to blend all the flavors and textures into a delightful medley, a quirk that amused my friend!

Just looking at these pictures makes my stomach rumble all over again! The aroma of that savory beef broth and the sight of those perfectly cooked, rustic noodles is truly irresistible, reminding me of that delightful meal.

The highlight truly was the incredible texture and authentic taste of those hand-cut and handmade noodles – a testament to the dedication and craftsmanship found in Taiwanese culinary traditions, making every bite a unique experience.

Art, Innovation, and Recreation: The Vibrant Pier 2 Arts Center

Re-energized by our hearty lunch, we decided to explore Kaohsiung’s dynamic creative side by renting bicycles – an excellent way to navigate the city – and cycling over to the renowned Pier 2 Arts Center. This remarkable destination is a shining testament to urban renewal, transforming a vast, once-forgotten and abandoned warehouse district along the harbor into a thriving cluster of artistic expression and innovative design. The scale of Pier 2 is immense, easily warranting several hours of exploration. Visitors can wander through numerous vibrant shops featuring local artists and designers, explore captivating exhibitions showcasing contemporary art, and even marvel at ingeniously designed model homes crafted from repurposed shipping containers. Despite the blistering heat, we thoroughly enjoyed our leisurely pace, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere and admiring every piece of unique outdoor sculpture and captivating mural.

One particular mural caught my eye, a clever optical illusion that made it appear as if we were about to descend into an MRT station – a truly creative piece that played with perspective and public space!

If Bumblebee from Transformers were to manifest in real life, this impressive, larger-than-life yellow robot sculpture at Pier 2 would surely be him! The boundless creativity and playful spirit on display here are truly captivating.

I captured many more photographs during our visit, but for the sake of brevity and to avoid overwhelming this post with too much art, these few images should provide a clear impression of the center’s dynamic and creative spirit. The Pier 2 Arts Center is undeniably a must-visit destination if you find yourself in the Kaohsiung area, offering a refreshing blend of contemporary culture, urban artistry, and a fun, interactive environment for all ages.

A Refreshing Interlude: Indulging in Taiwanese Shaved Ice

Continuing our invigorating bicycle tour, we made a crucial and welcome stop at a local shaved ice parlor. There, we indulged in a colossal mound of finely shaved ice, generously topped with an assortment of fresh, vibrant tropical fruits like mango, strawberries, and passion fruit, drizzled with sweet condensed milk. This sweet, icy treat was the perfect antidote to the lingering heat and humidity, offering a burst of refreshing flavors and a much-needed cool down that truly hit the spot after all our cycling.

Island Escape: Cijin Island and Its Historic Lighthouse Views

Our two-wheeled adventure next took us to Cijin Island (旗津島), a narrow, charming island accessible by a short and incredibly scenic ferry ride. The ferry itself is an experience, efficiently transporting not only people but also a multitude of scooters and bicycles across the water, offering picturesque views of Kaohsiung’s harbor. Cijin Island is famously known for its historic lighthouse, its black sand beaches, and its picturesque coastal setting, offering a truly relaxing and calm escape from the city’s lively bustle.

The journey to the Cijin Lighthouse involved a significant hike uphill, winding through narrow paths, but the effort was unequivocally rewarded. From its elevated vantage point, which dates back to the Qing Dynasty, we were treated to an absolutely spectacular panoramic view of the Kaohsiung skyline, the bustling harbor with its ships, and the endless expanse of the ocean meeting the horizon. It was a moment of serene beauty, offering a unique perspective of the city, and an ideal spot to capture some stunning photographs, especially as the sun began to dip.

An Underground Masterpiece: The Dome of Light at Formosa Boulevard Station

Before heading back to our hotel, we made a special detour to the Formosa Boulevard MRT station (美麗島站). This isn’t just a transportation hub; it’s home to one of the world’s most breathtaking public art installations: the “Dome of Light.” Created by acclaimed Italian artist Narcissus Quagliata, this magnificent glass masterpiece spans an impressive 2,180 square meters, making it the largest glass artwork in the world. It vividly depicts the story of human life, from creation and prosperity to destruction and rebirth, through vibrant, swirling colors and intricate patterns illuminated by thousands of lights. The sheer scale, profound thematic depth, and kaleidoscopic beauty are simply spectacular, transforming an everyday subway station into an awe-inspiring subterranean art gallery. It certainly made me wish all subway stations back in Washington D.C. could be this visually stunning and inspiring!

Kaohsiung’s Night Market: A Vibrant Feast for the Senses

That evening, after an exhilarating and activity-packed day of exploration, we found ourselves utterly exhausted and decided to return to our hotel for a much-needed two-hour power nap. Recharged and ready for more adventure, our friend later joined us as we ventured into Kaohsiung’s most expansive night market – a colossal culinary labyrinth formed by the merging of three distinct night markets into one vibrant, sprawling district. This was the perfect setting for a casual dinner, allowing us to indulge in an endless array of delectable street food, eating to our hearts’ content and experiencing the true essence of Taiwanese street culture, a sensory overload in the best possible way.

Among the myriad of options available at the night market, salt and pepper chicken (鹽酥雞) stands out as one of my all-time favorite Taiwanese street food staples. These bite-sized pieces of crispy fried chicken, perfectly seasoned with aromatic salt, pepper, and often tossed with fresh basil leaves, are incredibly addictive and utterly satisfying – a true classic for a reason.

Another delightful discovery was these fried shrimp cakes. Golden brown and perfectly crispy on the outside, with a succulent, flavorful shrimp filling inside, they were equally tasty and a perfect complement to the other savory treats we sampled from the bustling stalls.

We also sampled these intriguing pancake-type balls, which I believe contained savory cuttlefish inside, offering a unique seafood flavor in a soft, chewy texture. The vendor offered a variety of ‘flavors’ or toppings to choose from, but our friend, fluent in local dialect and well-versed in night market etiquette, handled all the ordering, allowing us to simply savor each delicious, unexpected bite and truly enjoy the vibrant street food culture without a language barrier.

Concluding Our Unforgettable Kaohsiung Adventure

Our brief but incredibly rich two-day exploration of Kaohsiung left us with a deep appreciation for this dynamic southern Taiwanese city. From its efficient high-speed rail connections making it easily accessible, to its welcoming local culture and fascinating blend of tradition and modernity, Kaohsiung truly offers an unforgettable travel experience. We indulged in traditional comfort foods that spoke of heritage, marveled at the spiritual grandeur of its temples and pagodas, soaked in the contemporary creativity of the Pier 2 Arts Center, and savored the lively, delicious chaos of its legendary night markets. Every moment was a delightful discovery, showcasing Kaohsiung as a vibrant hub brimming with history, art, and irresistible flavors. If you’re planning a trip to Taiwan, make sure to venture south and let Kaohsiung enchant you with its unique charm, warm hospitality, and endless opportunities for adventure and culinary delight.